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What equipment should I order.
Metering - and why all photographers need a handheld exposure meter!
Metering - and why all photographers need a handheld exposure meter!
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FAQ> Technical FAQ > What equipment should I order.

Q. HELP! I want to get started with studio lighting, but I really don't know what equipment I need, or where to begin. Can you offer some guidance? What equipment should I buy?
A.
Regarding that question, the answer is the same as all answers concerning photography and/or videography; and the answer is: It depends. It depends upon what equipment you're using, what your subjects will be, and what results you expect. But I'll be glad to suggest some answers for you. Since I get asked this question all the time, I've discussed this subject in detail. So let me tell where to go to find the answers.

First, though, you have to decide what lighting equipment you'll need, and to that end, please see this discussion (just below)

Next, you'll have to decide whether to go with digital (continuous) lighting equipment, or with strobes, by reviewing this discussion:

Then, IF you want to use strobes with a digital camera, you'll have to determine whether or not your digital camera will work with strobes, by reading this:

Next, review some of the packages on my web site, and my eBay auctions, here. If nothing fits your needs, e-mail me and we'll put together a custom package just for you.
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Q. What lighting equipment should I order? What equipment do I need?

The answer to that question - as in ALL questions relating to photography or videography is: It depends.

It depends upon three things:

1) What kind(s) of camera(s) will you be using?
2) What will your subjects be (people? Products? High-rise buildings?)?
3) What is your budget range?

Since the most popular kinds of photography in the world today are people pictures (portraiture) and pictures of things (product photography), I'll start out with some examples relating to these two subjects. First, let's understand that the lighting equipment for portraiture as well as for product photography will most likely be the same (unless your products are very large, or extremely small),

So let's start with Portraiture/Product photography. Before I go into the equipment that we would want to have in order to make professional-level images, realize that you don't have to acquire everything at once. The first thing to realize is that even ONE pro strobe or continuous light will phenomenally improve your images! Why? Because it can be MOVED; it can be placed wherever you like. This capability (choice of placement) is far more important than power or size or cost. Why is placement so darn important? For the answer to that, just look any pictures or videos made with flash units or continuous lights built-into, or attached to your camera or camcorder. For the most part, we end up with red eyes, squinting subjects, "flat" faces, and ugly shadows behind the subjects. But when we have the ability to place our light source where it will do the most good, our images will improve amazingly. And the better able we are to place lights where they'll make our subjects look best, the better our pictures or videos will look.

Three Lights:
Understanding this, for portraiture and/or product photography, the IDEAL minimum lighting setup will consist of at least three lights. Why? In order to get professional-level images (or videos), we need to light our subjects from at least two opposing directions, with the light on one side less intense than the light on the other side (in order to achieve an interplay of light and shadow giving depth and texture to our subjects) That requires at least two lights.

The third light will serve as our backlight (the backlight is a light we place behind (and/or below) our subject, hidden from the camera's view, pointing backwards, to light our background). Why? First, to blow away all those horrible, ugly shadows that plague our amateur pictures (remember, wherever the light comes from, shadows will be cast in the opposite direction), and second, to provide separation between the subject and background, adding character to our subjects and images, and third to allow the background to receive enough light to properly expose in our shots (underexposed backgrounds look dull and washed out).

Softboxes
Next (and it's the same for either strobes or continuous lights), we should have umbrellas or softboxes to soften the light when we need to do so.

A soft, mellow light serves to quite effectively hide or reduce the lines, sags, and wrinkles on the faces of our older portraiture subjects (making them look younger and more vital), and for product photography helps bring out the delicate details of the products, allows us to work with soft, mellow, and almost shadowless light, and minimizes "hot spots" and reflections which occur when we photograph shiny or reflective objects or items such as eyeglasses or oil paintings. 2) If your budget doesn't allow for softboxes, then umbrellas are almost as good, and much less expensive than softboxes or SoftCases.

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Next, add to this basic 3 light setup, if we can comfortably afford it - without stealing the baby's food money - a fourth or fifth inexpensive little mini-light to use as a hairlight or accent light (what's a hairlight? You know that beautiful, healthy-looking "shine" you see on the models' hair in the pros' pictures? How do you think that lovely-looking shine got there? The hairlight is the secret! And an accent light opens up little shadows that sometimes detract from our images).

But remember what I said earlier - even ONE pro light is far, far better than none, so don't worry if you can't afford the larger kits; get what you can when you can. Every step increases your creative ability.

Additional:
And, of course, we'll need light stands to mount our lights on, accessories to control and direct the light (light modifiers: snoots, barndoors, reflectors, etc.), and if we intend to go on location shoots (or just to safely store our professional lighting equipment when we're not using it), carrying cases. And some portrait work would require backgrounds,

Light Meter:
Now let's consider one of the most helpful and virtually necessary photographic tools ever made: The Handheld Flash/Ambient exposure meter. I don't sell them, but please review my discussions about meters; I make some suggestions, and explain how and why they're so important to us:

Shooting Film or Digital  or Video
The next question is whether you're going to use a standard film camera (35mm, medium format, large format, etc.) or a digital camera, or a video camera/camcorder, or all the above.

Read this discussion; and then read this discussion to determine whether or not your digital camera(s) will work with strobes, by reading this.

Budget:
Meanwhile, you might want to consider these entry-level packages (I've made these suggestions based upon a minimum budget range - if you can afford more lights, and/or more powerful lights.

Entry-Level Packages:
Strobes:
Two & Three Light Strobe Kits
Continuous/Digital Lighting:
Three Lamp Continuous Light Package

Two Lamp Continuous Light Package:

Mid-Level Strobe Packages:
4 Strobe Package
4 Strobe & Backdrop Package
 
7 Strobe & Backdrop Package

Mid-Level Continuous Light Packages:
3 Lamp 3,000 Watt Package
5 Lamp 5,000 Watt Package

NB: The best advice is to acquire the most powerful lights (whether strobes or continuous lights) that will comfortably fit into your budget, and be appropriate for your needs. Consider what we will be photographing in the near future, and acquire lights capable of fitting our needs, and have a little extra power left over for us to grow into.

You'll find strobes from 20ws to 1,000ws and continuous lights from 100 watts to 1,000 watts on my web site; without straining your budget, consider the most powerful lights that will work for your needs, and remember that you can always order more whenever the need arises.

If you're still uncertain about what to order, get back to me and let me know what you're goal is:  I'll be glad to make some specific suggestions for you.

 

Q, OK, so now I know how many lights I might want to buy - but should I order strobes or continuous lights?

Should I order Strobes (flash equipment) or Digital/Video (continuous) lights?

Which type of lighting would be most suitable for your needs? The answer is the same as in ALL questions in photography: it depends. It depends upon what you want to achieve, and what equipment you're using (regular film SLR cameras, digital cameras, or video/movie cameras). The first thing to realize is that you can use film cameras with continuous lighting equipment, and you can use many digital cameras with strobe (flash) equipment. SO, which way should you go? Read on....

For film cameras you can use either continuous lights or strobe (flash) lighting; which will probably be best? If you're already working with strobes, and are happy with them, fine - go with strobes. However, if you don't already use strobes, I'd suggest starting out with continuous lights - they are much easier for the beginner, and can be used with all kinds of cameras, film, digital, camcorders, and movie cameras. But if you're using mostly digital cameras, then you should definately consider the digital continuous lighting equipment. The continuous lighting equipment (click here: HERE), as I just explained, can be used with film cameras (35mm, medium format, large format) as well as with digital cameras, video cameras, and movie cameras. Why, you might be asking yourself, did most still film photographers used to use strobes? Because, when "regular" continuous lights first came on the market (photographers used to call them "hot" lights for a reason: they got hot). Really hot! And the special photographic hot lights got twice as hot as household bulbs! This used to make certain things, like flowers, foods, animals, and those darn pesky models, wilt. Especially models. They got very, very, unhappy when they wilt. Bitch, bitch, bitch; you'd think a little melting makeup, and running mascara, limp hair, and sticky lipstick, and beads of sweat running down their lovely curvaceous (umm, let's say noses) was a big deal or something, the way they complain! ;-) But "hot lights" are not that "hot" any more!
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As we all know, technology is fast-moving, and for those of us who have digital cameras, video cameras, or are movie makers, the new digital continuous lighting equipment - the "hot lights" - are now much better made and vented to substantially reduce the amount of heat they throw off, and are also perfectly color-balanced for digital still pictures as well as video and movies.Plus, the digital continuous lighting equipment can also be successfully used for regular still film photography (35mm, medium format, etc.) as well. If we still shoot with a film camera, all we need to do to use continuous lights is to use tungsten film OR use an 81A filter on our film cameras, both of which are inexpensive and easily acquired. In addition, to the heat reductions on the new lights, the Digital Lamps I offer are so powerful that they can be placed far enough away from our subjects to virtually eliminate the heat problems which were so common with the older, standard hot lights.

Basically, you can successfully use hot lights with film cameras, or use strobes with many digital cameras. But depending upon which types of equipment you're using for the majority of your work, you'd be better off with the following lighting equipment:

So, to (finally:) answer the question, here's my advice: IF you're going to be using mostly still film cameras (35mm, medium format, large format, etc.), and you are already using - and happy with - strobes then go for the strobe (flash) equipment. In many cases, strobes can also be successfully used with digital cameras (click here -> HERE <- for more - and important - information on this subject, because some digital cameras cannot work with strobes).

But IF you're going to be using mostly digital cameras, then go for the digital continuous lighting equipment; continuous lighting can be easily and successfully used with still film cameras (by using tungsten film or a simple 81A filter) as well as with digital cameras, for which the light is already perfectly balanced.Also, continuous lighting equipment is easier for the beginner to use because we can see exactly where our subjects will be illuminated before we make an exposure. So the equipment you're going to be using the majority of the time will dictate the type of lighting equipment you should acquire. For example, if you're using digital cameras 80% of the time and film cameras 20% of the time, you'll be better off with continuous lighting equipment. If your work should be the reverse (e.g., 80% film cameras and 20% digital cameras), then you'd be better off with strobes.

HOWEVER, if you're going to be using video cameras or movie cameras, your only choice is the continuous lighting equipment. So, the lighting equipment you should acquire is based upon your needs, and the type of equipment you're going to be using (still film cameras, digital cameras, video cameras, or movie cameras). Of course, only you can make the proper decision regarding your needs. I hope this helps; if not, feel free to contact me if I can be of any further help in any way.
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